Bamboo is a very-fast growing woody grass that can produce shoots of up to a metre per day. Therefore, it is imperative to develop ecofriendly methods for coir extraction from coconut husks. When you ret flax, mould, warmth and humidity dissolve this ‘glue’ and loosen the fibre. Chemical retting involves immersion of the dried plants in a tank with a solution of chemicals, such as sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, high pH agents, pectinolytic enzymes or mineral acids. The hard fibres are obtained by decortication and the soft fibres by ginning process as the machines remove the product from the plant. The soft tissues are removed from the fibre plant with the help of bacteria. Dew retting is a more sustainable process where the stalks are left out in the field for 6 weeks, and are acted upon by the dew, sun and fungi. This requires 10-12 months of anaerobic (bacterial) fermentation. Microbes are used in retting to obtain bast fibres. It is high in both tensile and ductile strength. The water‐retting process is initiated by aerobic bacteria; as the air in the rettery … 2013). 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Nettles have a long history as a textile fibre substitute for linen, dating back to medieval times, and have also been used commercially more recently during both World Wars, when other crops such as cotton were scarce. Additionally linen is up to twelve times stronger than the equivalent cotton product, which dramatically increases its life spun and therefore does not need to be replaced so often. It is related to flax and hemp and can be used to produce a fine linen-like cloth. After hackling, washing and drying (in the shade) the fibres are loosened manually and cleaned. Retting, process employing the action of bacteria and moisture on plants to dissolve or rot away much of the cellular tissues and gummy substances surrounding bast-fibre bundles, thus facilitating separation of the fibre from the stem. It can be recycled several times within its lifecycle and also has important biodegradable properties. Very little bamboo is irrigated and there is sound evidence that the water-use efficiency of bamboo is twice that of other trees. Ramie is also an important fabric both woven and knitted for the North American market where it is seen as a cheaper ‘linen look’ alternative. As a textile fibre it blends well with both other natural fibres and synthetics and when dyed it retains colour well being both colour and light fast. Example:Jute is associated with the process of Retting. About 40 million hectares of the earth is covered with bamboo, mostly in Asia. It can also be used for biodegradable plastics. Fabric made from ramie has a thick and thin horizontal appearance giving it many of the visual characteristics of linen and it is often used as a linen alternative, as it costs far less to produce. In tanks with warm water, the time is reduced to a few days. Research is already under way to develop the use of nettles for textiles. The fibre itself needs to be separated from the interior xylem or woody core and some times also from the epidermis which is the outer most layer of cells that carries nutrients to the leaves. Even when these are used flax requires only one fifth of the pesticides and artificial fertilisers that is required for commercially grown cotton. Bamboo typically grows very densely and its clumping nature enables substantial quantities to be grown in a comparatively small area, easing pressure on land use. Along with flax, this fast-growing plant is now the basis for a new textile woven on conventional cotton-machinery, called CRAILAR� Organic Fibres. Retting is facilitated by anaerobic butyric acid bacteria such as Clostridium botulinum, Clostridium tetani and Clostridium perfringens. However, herbicide and fertilizer applications are common in some places to encourage edible shoot growth. The soft tissues are removed from the fibre plant with the help of bacteria. Due to its ease of cultivation, potential environmental benefits and extraordinary growth rate it is a cheap, sustainable and efficient crop. The processes for making nettles into desirable and commercially viable textiles are developing all the time and offer a far more environmentally sustainable alternative to conventional cotton. However, within the European Union and Canada a licence has to be issued for its cultivation. The quality of the final linen yarn and fabric is dependent upon the growing conditions, harvesting methods and whether it is a short fibre known as, It is a more expensive fibre than cotton with much more of a niche market and therefore is an ideal vehicle for organic cultivation and ecological production methods. sativa) is an efficient crop, which has multiple uses, the most valuable part of the plant is its fibres for production for the fabric industry, and it is also extensively used for biodegradable plastics and bio fuels. A huge benefit of using bamboo as the organic base for textile fibres is that there is no need for pesticides or fertilisers when growing bamboo. The most widely practiced method of retting, water retting, is performed by submerging bundles of stalks in water. explained in more detail below, hemp fibres are classically separated from the plant stems by “water retting”, which in essence is a microbial process. The water, penetrating to the central stalk portion, swells the inner cells, bursting the outermost layer, thus increasing absorption of both moisture and decay-producing bacteria. Bast fibres, like linen and flax are obtained from the phloem, or inner bark (or skin) of a plant. Currently dew retting is the dominant and most desirable method from a sustainability perspective. Not all bacteria isolated fromretted jute are responsible for theprocess, as for instance, seven species of aerobic bacteria were isolated fromretted jute but only oneof them, B. poly- … The plants are long and slender with fibres that are between one and five metres long running the full length of the plant. Linen absorbs dye well, especially natural dyes and does not require chemical treatments. The fibre was not damaged by mechanical hackling, thanks to the good retting level obtained by the addition of selected strains, differently to what happened with the traditionally retted fibre. Microbes are also important in agriculture for the compost and fertilizer production. Industrial Hemp (Cannabis sativa L. subsp. The finest qualities of hemp for fabric are now produced in Italy. Classical field retting and controlled fungal retting of hemp using Phlebia radiata Cel 26 (a mutant with low cellulose degrading ability) were compared with pure pectinase treatment with regard to mechanical properties of the produced fibre/epoxy composites. Simply put, retting is a plant fibre-extraction process in which fibre-rich plants are made subject to decomposition via heavily exposing it to moisture which promotes microbial activity. This regular harvesting is of benefit to the health of the plant and studies have shown that cutting of bamboo canes leads to vigorous re-growth and an increase in the amount of biomass the following year. It is an ecologically sustainable plant requiring far less water and no chemical pesticides or fertilisation. In double retting, a gentle process producing excellent fibre, the stalks are removed from the water before retting i… The common stinging Nettle, Urtica dioica, is a widely distributed plant that grows very easily on disturbed ground that is damp. It is commonly used in regions of low water supply. There are two ways of retting flax, water retting and dew retting. Bamboo fabric made from this process is sometimes called bamboo linen. Kenaf fiber is also considered a substitute for jute and used in sacking, rope, and bags. It holds its shape well and does not wrinkle easily. The two varieties of jute are white jute corchorus capsularis or Indian jute and Tossa jute corchorus olitorius, which is Afro-Arabic jute. Other uses of brown coir (made from ripe coconut) are in upholstery padding, sacking and horticulture. As it is a grass species it regenerates after being cut, much like a lawn, which negates the need for replanting. Many Chinese producers of bamboo viscose continue to use caustic chemicals in their processing, negating the sustainable benefits of the raw fibre. Water retting gives a more uniform quality product. Today, this project has has grown to over 80 hectares. The same manufacturing process is used to produce linen fabric from flax or hemp. Bast fibre bundles are often several feet long and composed of overlapping cellulose fibres and a cohesive gum, or pectin, which strengthens the stem of the plant. Naturally Advanced Technologies Inc. (NAT), Vancouver, Canada, has granted licence to Tuscarora Yarns Inc. under which Tuscarora will design and manufacture specialty yarns containing blends of NAT's CRAILAR� Flax fibre with cotton or other fibres. Years of selective breeding have produced many different varieties. Increased production of the fibre in Asia, and particularly China, has promoted the use in blended fabrics with silk, linen, and cotton, which can now be found on the market. Retting is a process employing the action of micro-organisms and moisture on plants to dissolve or rot away much of the cellular tissues and pectins surrounding bast-fibre bundles, and so facilitating separation of the fibre from the stem The seeds and stalks as well as the general fermentation of the plant produces an oil that may be used as bio diesel, and while a low energy fuel it is better than other similar crops. For more information on linen, go into the Linen-Bast category. These include linseed oil for linoleum, soap, fuel and cattle feed. The lipopolysaccharides of tail fibres act as receptor in phages. This restriction has hampered its use as a modern commercially viable raw material. In 2004 a DEFRA funded project ‘Sustainable Technology in Nettle Growing’ (STING) at Leicester's De Montfort University has succeeded in extracting a silky thread that is stronger and finer than that of other plants such as hemp. Linen refers to yarn and fabric made from the fibres of the stem of the flax plant. It grows best under traditional farming methods where the crops are rotated and fields are allowed to lay fallow; it also benefits from a longer lifespan. It is a species of hibiscus with visual similarities to Jute. A short history of retting methods, which is the separation of bast fiber from nonfiber components, is presented with emphasis on water retting, field retting (dew retting), and experimental methods. The fibres are naturally white and do not need to undergo any bleaching processes for either paper or cloth uses. Retting with bacterial inoculum for 5–6 days led to major changes Starting from the second day of retting, the fibre samples in the ultimate fibres: the fibrous wall texture became from the tanks inoculated with the two selected bacterial more prominent, suggesting a loss of matrix components strains clearly showed better properties than the corre- (Fig. Retting time must be carefully judged; under-retting makes separation difficult, and over-retting weakens the fibre. Furthermore, it was reported that the conditions for bacterial growth and activities were found to be more consistent in water retting, which produced the uniform colonization of bacteria and resulted in better fiber quality (Nair et al. • The fibres are then mechanically extracted, washed, dried and marketed. 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